{"id":138,"date":"2009-07-09T08:52:58","date_gmt":"2009-07-09T00:52:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/mecha.luscent.net\/?p=138"},"modified":"2020-04-22T13:55:43","modified_gmt":"2020-04-22T05:55:43","slug":"blue-frame-second-g2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/luscent.net\/mecha\/blue-frame-second-g2\/","title":{"rendered":"Astray Blue Frame Second-G II"},"content":{"rendered":"

Unit Name:<\/strong> MBF-02 Gundam Astray Blue Frame Second-G II
\nSeries:<\/strong> Gundam Seed Astray<\/p>\n

Scale:<\/strong> 1\/100
\nGrade:<\/strong> High Grade
\nCompleted In:<\/strong> 2008<\/p>\n

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This is my first ever attempt on building customized Gunpla and using wet-type decals. For this project, I used parts from 2 kits; the Astray Blue Frame Second-L<\/strong> (Gundam Seed Astray) and Gundam Heavyarms Custom<\/strong> (Gundam Wing: Endless Waltz) series.
\nI did a little modification to the kit’s backpack system, basically changing the giant sword into two sword + gatling guns instead.
\nThis is actually my entry for the previous BAKUC 2008 Malaysia<\/a> event. The modifications done are rather minimal but I hope you’ll enjoy it.<\/p>\n

The Astray Blue Frame underwent few upgrades along the series, ranging from close-range to full-armored long range weapon packs.
\nI named my project as Second-G II<\/strong>, a fictional upgrade after the Second-G<\/a> weapon pack in the story. The “G”<\/strong> letter represents the pilot’s name which is Gai Murakumo<\/strong> but for this project, the letter “G”<\/strong> can also signify for “Gunner”<\/strong> \ud83d\ude1b<\/p>\n

The cosmetic process for this project involves sanding, gundam markers, nail polish to give a smooth shiny finish to the parts and finally using wet decals to add in the details. One thing I’d like to note is that for metallic color markers, it’s best if you can seal them using clear lacquer spray<\/strong> to protect it from fading overtime.<\/p>\n

Referring to my first experience with using wet decals, I think it’s rather simple to apply compared to dry-pressed ones. Once you have transfered it on the kit, it’s still possible to further adjust the decal’s position while it’s still wet. As for the dry counterpart, you can’t do anything about it once it’s pressed on the kit. Furthermore, I find it quite difficult to make the dry decal sheet stay in place while transferring and often slipped from the intended location. The result was either the decals were half-torn or wrinkled. I’m absolutely not a pro at dry decals \ud83d\ude41<\/p>\n

External Reference<\/strong><\/p>\n